One of the highlights certainly of our Panama travels as well as one of our favorites during our entire trip has been our visit to the San Blas Archipelago. It is a strip of land and offshore islands (mostly coral atolls) on the Caribbean coast. It is owned and managed autonomously by the Kuna Yala people. The island on which our lodge was located was about a half acre in size and all sand with 19 coconut palms (Natalie counted them). It was idyllic and we could have easily killed some more time there. The famous molas - a brightly colored reverse applique emboridery characteristic of Panama - are made by the Kuna Yala women. The water was incredible and there is nothing like a small self contained beach island to keep two kids entertained and out of trouble for a while. Our Kuna lodge manager took us snorkeling, to visit his village, and up one of the rivers to see their plantations. They made wonderful meals of seafood for us every night as well.
We used Panama City as our coming and going spot and during our stop-over days visited the canal. Natalie and Russell were enthralled by the ships going through the locks. I might have been too, but was busy keeping Liam from damaging himself or destroying something. The lack of sleep, missed naps, and schedule (or lack thereof), have made him into a bit of a handful at this point. It was fascinating to watch these ginormous barcos move through the locks. And the museum detailing the construction gave me an awe for this feat of engineering - especially at the turn of the century.
The following day we did a boat tour on the river and lake that make up part of the canal. We saw more monkeys and a toucan as well as some more mega-boats transiting the canal. The jungle around this part of the canal is protected (the rainforest must be preserved to ensure that there will be adequate water to operate the locks) and rich in wildlife. We visited a national park nearby that had an observation tower overlooking the canopy. Despite a sign warning us not to take children under 12 Russell and I took Natalie and Liam (on my back) up the winding spiral staircase trying to reach the top before the sky unleashed a storm on us. We had just reached the top and were admiring the view when a lightning bolt struck not more than a half mile away. As soon as I was able to say, "Time to go down!" the clap of thunder reached us and Natalie let out a blood-curdling scream. She was in hysterics the entire walk back to the visitor center and did not really calm down until we got in our minivan back to the hotel. Liam fed on her hysteria and we had two wailing kids in the pouring rain. We really couldn't do anything but laugh at the whole scene. It is a shame we didn't get to explore this cool park more and look for more wildlife (other than our kids). I did enjoy watching about six or seven - at least - different species of hummingbirds feeding around the visitor center. The Hum Birds also helped to calm Liam at least.
From Panama City we took another flight to the northern Caribbean coast to visit Bocas del Toro. The area, unfortunately, was hammered by about two weeks of storms about a week before we arrived. The winds, high tides, and rough seas combined wiped out a lot of their beaches including the one small beach at our accommodations. The heavy rain also meant that the mosquitos were much worse than normal - in fact the worst we've experienced the whole trip. Our accommodations were really lovely, spacious, serene, and again with kitchen which was great. There was a huge expanse of jungle all around us which would have been fun to explore. We really wanted to see a sloth! We were treated to the sound of Liam's Howler monkeys and green parrots. And at night we were serenaded by the sound of frogs and crashing surf (and rain). But, the mozzies were a deterrent for much jungle exploration and the distance from town made getting out to see other parts of the area more of a hassle. We took a boat tour and did a bit of snorkeling and dolphin watching. The coral in the area was gorgeous! So many different types of soft coral in the most vibrant colors. The visibility could have been bettter (also affected by the rain), but it was stunning nonetheless. Our last day we went sailing on a trimaran and did more of the same - snorkeling, watching dolphins, soaking up our last rays of warm sunshine to fuel us through the upcoming months.
Left Bocas this morning and spent the day in Panama City. Natalie got to go diving for rings in the outdoor pool and show off the swimming skills she's acquired in the past three months. We realized that her feet have outgrown all her shoes that we brought with us except the Chacos she's been wearing exclusively for the past 6 weeks. Since Chacos aren't so hot in snow we had to brave the Mall of (Central) America in Panama City and buy her a pair of shoes. It was an anti-climatic way to spend our last night in Panama to say the least.
We are feeling bittersweet. Russell and I are both pretty ready to be home. We are definitely ready to ski and get back into shape! As fun as this laid back life is we are both craving a little exercise and wanting to sweat because we worked hard, not just because it is stinking hot. Liam is ready to have some routine in his life again and the opportunity to sleep as much as his little body needs. Natalie does not at all want to go home or have any of this end and has let us know that today. As would be expected! She says she is looking forward to seeing Grannie Sue and Grandad, Christmas, and reading all her magazines that have accumulated in our absence. But, has no interest in cold and will miss the ocean and swimming pools A LOT. It has a been a wonderful adventure with memories that will fuel us for months to come. It has proven to us that we can travel with kids and we hope it will only get easier in the future. It has helped us all learn to be more adaptable. And it has been a fabulous time spent together. The sun, wildlife, culture, ocean, and jungle will be missed by us all. But, we are looking forward to being home and getting back together with our friends and family! We leave at 5:30 am tomorrow and travel from Panama City to San Salvador to Belize City (pick up two left bags and two carseats) to Houston to Seattle. We get to spend the night in Seattle before our last leg home. Russell informed me that we will have taken 23 separate flights byt the time we get home (he would count them). So, with that ahead of me I should wrap this up and get to bed!
